Wednesday, 10 September 2014

Surfing

Here's a photo of me dominating the Banzai Pipeline.

And my adoring fans simply awe stricken by my control and strength. 

Just kidding...that was someone else doing their best to stay alive at Pipeline. I was slugging it out at a spot called Chun's Reef, which has been a good spot to learn how to surf. Today was slightly different - it was more aggressive,  unpredictable and gnarly. While the word gnarly is nothing new, feeling it certainly is. I spent more time underwater than on top of it and it mostly resembled being in the spin cycle of a washing machine. I also happened to have a large sea turtle swimming with me as I'd paddle out, which was fun. Of course, he seemed to be gasping for air as much as I was, so perhaps he was looking for support.

While I was doing my best to survive, Ethan was staring at the ground...


Making some fun footprints with Mandy.

And here's the spot that Ethan started really enjoying the water...at an overrun of water at Banzai Pipeline.

Of all places to overcome the fear of swimming, I didn't expect it to happen at Pipeline.



I should also mention that this was our anniversary.  Typically known as Lance Romance, I did the right thing and took a long walk on the beach under a full moon... with my family buddy Rich. We went to check out the waves crashing down on the beach, as well as seeing a lone crazy guy surfing under the moonlit sky. It was heavenly.

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